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This isn't really a project or even a quickie, I just thought it was a neat pic of my Scavvies and my Goliaths (run by my brother-in-law) fighting it out on a high walkway. |
| This picture shows some of the modular Necromunda terrain that Greg has made. |  |
Greg explains how he made the game board:
3/4 inch (20 mm) polystyrene was cut into 1'x2' (30 cm x 60 cm) rectangles and no MDF was added. I did this for a couple reasons. The sections are smaller and lighter. They have to be, they travel a lot. I also did it so, when assembled, they look like giant concrete slabs. I cut cracks and lines in some sections then covered the board sections in filler and spots of sand, even on the edges. This is so the sections can be stacked on one another like a giant pyramid. After it dried it was sanded some and cardstock and plastic card with rivets were cut and glued to the ground, giving the illusion of an access or repair. All the sections were drybrushed with paint I found called 'Hippo Grey'. It's made by Delta Ceramcote, and has a great grey-green tinge that's perfect for the Hive. The added plates were painted silver and washed with repeatedly with rust and black washes.
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This is a section of my game board with a big toxic pond designed into it. The board section was made like I described above, with the exception that I had a large hole cut into this one. |
I coloured a piece of ordinary paper with reds and purples in a swirled pattern and taped it to the bottom of the board. This can be done on the MDF board if you are putting a backing on your board. I mixed up some "Pour On" and added a couple of drops of red ink to it. ("Pour On" is a heavy, two part varnish that dries with a thick, high gloss surface) after it dried (72 hrs!) I glued on a barrel and a toxic container that were previously cut in half and finished. Then came more pour on. This time, no tint and just a light coat. After that, using a toothpick, I ran trace amounts or red, rust, and purple paint in the varnish, especially around the containers. This gave the effect that they were seeping their contents into the pond. Then I just let it dry another long 72 hours!
| The water plant
Materials
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Method
I started off by drawing a sketch of what I roughly wanted the water plant to look like. After that I drew a rough layout on the MDF base. I cut foamcore into 1 inch (25 mm) strips. I used these to make the sidewalls of the water container.
I cut mattboard to fit and glued it to the foamcore, filling any gaps with PVA. This made the top of the container. I made a pile of filler and stone on one side of the container to simulate the builder taking advantage of natural features.
The bottom and pile were flocked with coarse sand, the rest flocked with regular sand. I glued on an upside-down car interior and some bits for a control station. Add some interesting pipes and stuff on the bottom of the pool, they look good covered in water. Do not add your water source yet! At this point you need to paint your project, the water and the source comes later.
After painting, Heat up the E-Z water per the directions. USE CAUTION!! IT'S HOT AND WILL BURN WITH INTENSITY AS IT STICKS TO YOUR SKIN!! Have your project right nearby, if it cools it won't pour. Just before pouring, whip The E-Z water with something disposable. This will add some air bubbles. Pour it out directly on the spot where you want the water source to flow. The E-Z will cool where it hits and then flows over to the rest of the area. Finally, build and paint a source for your water. Mine was a one way valve from a CPR mask with cardstock embellishments. Glue in place, and add a dripping of hot glue from the pipe to the water.
Power Generator
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We have presented this as a quickie, since not everyone has a walkman laying around that they can take apart... |
This piece is a steadfast bunker that looks suspiciously like a walkman (oh I don't know...I wouldn't have guessed Gary). The front and rear sections (the walkman parts) had to be backed with mattboard so the side walls could fit with minimum difficulty. To hide the backing the cardstock was wrapped around both the front and the back sections and dolls eyes were added for bolts.
| The side walls are made from cardboard packing found on fluorescent light tubes. This was an experiment that worked well, but was difficult. The removable roof is foamcore, trimmed with mattboard. |  |
The tar paper roof is facial tissue PVA'd and painted. Other bits were added, including a scratch built box and a wooden barrel from a hobby supply store.