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Bases For Terrain

by Gary James

Almost all terrain pieces will need some kind of firm base. The base

adds strength to the model and allows a bit of landscaping to help it

blend into the gameboard. I use three types of base - thin card or

foamcore, corrugated cardboard, and plywood/MDF. The commonest problem

with bases is warping after the model is finished and the heavier the

base, the harder it is to make, but the less likely it is to warp. You

pay your money and take your choice! See the materials

section for details of each material.

[h3]Card or foamcore[/h3]

This is the lightest and weakest kind of base. It is only suitable for

very small and light pieces of terrain such as fencing,

archeotech hoards or Epic

40K plastic ruins; or pieces that are quite heavy and strong in

themselves, such as the <a href="http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page218.html">packing

cases</a> shown elsewhere on TerraGenesis. I use picture framing card

because it is quite sturdy and you can buy offcuts cheaply from picture

framing shops. Thin stock such as this tends to be OK unless you cover

it with flock or sand - it is the application of glue to only one side

of a material that tends to make it warp.

[h3]Corrugated cardboard[/h3]

Very thick corrugated cardboard can be used quite successfully for bases

but you really need to use two layers. Glue the layers so that the

corrugations run at right-angles to each other to minimise warp in each

direction. I used a corrugated cardboard base on the <a href="http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page197.html">Lizardmen

temple</a> and the fortified

tower. In the latter case I used corrugated cardboard because I

wanted to cut through the top layer to make the pond. This material is

quite difficult to cut - it can be easier to saw it with a hacksaw blade

than cut it - and sealing the edges of the corrugation can be

tricky...until now that is, because I have discovered how to do it! Buy

some of that brown, gummed paper that comes in rolls and is used to seal

parcels. Butterfly is one brand in the UK. Don't buy the plastic tape -

it has to be the brown gummed paper type. Get 2 inch wide tape if you

can. Then lick it (yeuk!) and stick it over the bare corrugated edges.

This stuff sticks like crazy to cardboard and you can tear it into

little bits to go around difficult corners. I highly recommend this way

of sealing corrugated cardboard - you could try filling the corrugated

edges with filler bit it tends to fall out as the base flexes slightly.

[h3]Plywood and MDF[/h3]

Plywood and MDF (medium density fibreboard) are the strongest and best

materials to use for bases. The down side is that they are the most

expensive and the most difficult to work. Note that even plywood will

warp if it is only 4 mm or so thick - I recommend 6mm plywood/MDF and

thicker. This type of strong base is essential on models that don't have

a great deal of strength in themselves (for example the refinery

which has a 10mm plywood base). Cut the base out with a jigsaw, fretsaw,

keyhole saw or similar and then take the edges off with sandpaper, a

file or a surform tool (a sort of cross between a rasp and plane). You

can always glue some foamcore as a top layer to the plywood or MDF if

you want a surface that you can cut into to make streams, roads and such

like.