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<td valign="top">Dave Steingass is building a Forge World
collection. At last you get to use up all of those bottles and
bendy straws that you have been collecting all these years.
I should like to point out that no senior citizens were harmed
in the manufacture of this model...</td>
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Materials
# old 1/8" panelling, fiber board, MDF or similar for the base.
# 1/2 of a shampoo bottle (shapes may vary)
# A plastic jewel case from a 100 MB Zip Disk
# Granny Grating (sorry if I forget who coined that term //...and
I'm sure it's banned under the Geneva Convention...Gary//)
otherwise known as plastic needlework mesh (25 cents a sheet at
sewing stores or Wal-Mart)
# Thick card
# Seed beads
# Plastic I beam
# Solder (whatever thickness you have laying around) typically about
60% tin 40% lead for flexibility
# Old model kits (buy whatever kits you can find marked down at the
stores) I used a 1957 Chevy Bel-Air $3.00
# Other Bits, pipes,.22 shells(spent) etc.
# Paints (cheap)
This is the first terrain piece I built for my Forge World theme. It
is a small piece, but I spent extra time on the details.
I
started by rescuing a shampoo bottle from the trash, I then stared at it
a while. It reminded me of the boilers that I used to see in the school
boiler room years ago. So I set out to create one. The shampoo bottle
was cut in half carefully, and the top half stored away in my bitz box.
I glued the half to a 6" square panelling base (panel side down).
Then I set out to create a raised deck (inspired by Gary's refinery
and the tanks in the 40k rulebook). I cut about an inch off of the short
side of the Zip Disk case cover, and used a knife to score the semi
circle out of the deck(to fit around the shampoo bottle) and snapped it
off.
TIP: When using Zip disk Cases or CD jewel cases, score your cuts
with a knife first, you can then snap off the plastic without shattering
the it. These are plentiful and make great (cheap) sheet plastic.
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<td valign="top">I left the open hinged end of the case cover intact
to give the deck a cool, detailed front end as you can see in the
side view picture. I then cut the plastic I beam into the height
that I wanted and glued them to the base in a measured fashion
relative to the zip disk case. The granny grating was then cut and
fit into the grooves of the I beam.</td>
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The zip dish case was then glued to the I beams. I used the holes in
the Zip disk hinge to be an exit point for a bunch of wires (solder).
They then run into that cool distribution box that you see, a car
battery from a 57' Chevy! The cable loops are solder lengths too.
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<td valign="top">The other side is detailed up maily the same way.
The railing on the deck is made of .22 shells glued on upside
down, and thick card glued to the tops. Small model car circle
pieces were then glued on, and finally, a tiny seed bead glued in
the middle of each circle.</td>
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<td valign="top">The boiler itself was detiled using solder (for
conduit/pipe), car parts, another battery, air cleaner, etc.,
small pieces of card (panels with solder for access handles). The
black pipe leading up on the right side is a piece of corrugated
plastic wiring conduit, cut in half. It leads up to a hood scoop,
and an oil pan glued to the side (from the car model).</td>
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The big valve handle is a car wheel, carved down. More seed beads
were added for rivets. There are also ball point pen tubes and bendy
straws underneath the deck, which cannot be seen by the photographs.
The whole project was sprayed black. The boiler itself was then
drybrushed Antique Copper (an Apple Barrell/Folk Art color), and the
rest was brushed silver, aluminum, and boltgun metal. The concrete was
drybrushed in shades of grey.